It’s simple to start composting. It saves landfill space, saves you money in fertilizer and garbage costs, and improves your soil. Compost happens naturally, no matter what, but by following these directions you are simply accelerating the natural decomposition process to produce healthy soil you can use in your garden, lawn or on your house plants. Just follow these simple steps:

Step 1: Get a bin or find an area in your yard that is approximately one cubic yard (3’x3’x3’). Size is important for the proper temperature.

Step 2: Mix two parts brown (dry leaves, small twigs, straw, etc.) with one part green (grass clippings, fruit and vegetable waste, coffee grounds, egg shells, etc.). This 2:1 ratio provides the best mix of carbon (brown) to nitrogen (green).

Step 3: Chop or break up any twigs and large pieces of fruit and veggie waste. The more surface area, the faster the material will break down.

Step 4: Keep it moist. Water your compost to keep it moist like a wrung out sponge.

Step 5: Keep it turning. Compost needs air. Turning the compost will help it break down and will keep it from smelling unpleasant.

Step 6: When it’s ready, your compost should look and smell like rich soil. Use finished compost to feed your garden, flowers, potted plants, and lawn.

Where can I get a bin?
If you’re looking for a ready-made bin, some places to check are McGuckin Hardware, Sutherlands, Fruehauf’s in Boulder, Village Gardener in Longmont, Ace Hardware on Main in Longmont, and Costco. Prices range depending on the model type. For example, one of the three models McGuckin Hardware carries is a higher-tech tumbler, while Sutherlands has a very basic wire model. The secret to compost does not lie in a commercial bin, however. Many composters simply wire off a 3’x3’x3’ area, while others use pallets for bin walls.

Doesn’t compost smell bad?
No. Compost should not create an odor if you take care of it properly. Healthy compost smells like soil. If your compost is smelly, that’s a sign that it needs more air. Aerate your compost by regularly turning your pile.
What shouldn’t go in compost?
Bones, meat, eggs (egg shells are okay), cheese, and other dairy products or oils should be thrown in the garbage. Excrement from dogs and cats should also be kept out.

How do I use compost?
Flowers and vegetables: Work in half an inch of mature compost into the top six inches of the soil with a garden fork or rototiller. Be sure soil isn’t sodden with water as, when it dries, it can result in an “adobe effect” which adversely affects the plants.
Perennials: Use compost as a mulch to gradually improve the soil. Apply it an inch or so deep, between the plants.
Seedlings or potted flowers: Use 20% mature compost in the soil mix (if the mix you purchased doesn’t already contain compost or worm castings).
Trees and shrubs: Uncomposted wood chips, grass clippings, and leaves can be spread around plantings. Be sure that woody wastes are sufficiently chopped up in a chipper/shredder.
Indoor plants: Add small handfuls to the surface of the soil inside the pots. It will break down over time and provide nutrients as it decomposes.
Compost tea: Ailing plants can get a boost from “tea” made from a shovelful of finished compost soaked in a 5-gallon bucket of water for a week. Drain off the liquid and dilute one part tea with two parts water, and water indoor or outdoor plants.

I want to learn more.
Become a Master Composter by taking one of the extremely informative and thorough trainings provided by the Boulder Energy Conservation Center (BECC) and the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension office. BECC also has great information on xeriscaping—essential in our arid, Colorado climate. Contact BECC at 303-441-3278. The CSU Cooperative Extension office can be reached at 303-776-4865. Check out Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof for more information on bins, the process, compost applications, and more.

Thanks to Eric Johnson for providing much of the information in this article.